OMAN: HUMAN CIVILISATION

History

Little is known about Oman’s pre-Islamic past but it is clear from recent archaeological discoveries and research that early civilisations existed at least 5000 years ago.

Sumerian tablets refer to a country named “Magan” as a source of copper. It seems certain that they referred to Oman. Evidence from excavations near Sohar shows that the copper mining and smelting industry was well developed by the year 2000 BC.

Frankincense from Dhofar, which was so important in the social and religious life of ancient peoples provides evidence of the existence of an early trading community. It is also clear that there were farming and fishing settlements from the earliest times.

The ancestors of present day Omanis are believed to have arrived in two waves of migration over a number of years, the first from the Yemen and the second from northern Arabia at a time when various parts of the country were occupied by the Persians.  

The Coming of Islam and the Early Imamate
 

The call of the Prophet Mohammed to the Omanis to become Muslims altered the course of their history. It was around 630 AD that Amr Ibn al-As arrived in Oman bearing a letter from the Prophet to Abd and Jaifar, the two sons of al-Julanda, who ruled Oman jointly. Having embraced Islam, they were instrumental in defeating the Persians.

The early Imamate in Oman arose out of a vision to create the true and ideal Muslim state. The first Ibadhi Imam, Julanda bin Mas’ud, was elected in 751 AD but he died in battle and it was not until 801 AD after a period of turmoil that Warith bin Kaab was elected. There then followed a period of peace, stability and prosperity lasting more than 300 years

Maritime trade flourished and Sohar became the greatest sea port in the Islamic world. As they travelled and traded, the Omanis spread the message of Islam, as well as Arab culture and language, reaching as far east as China.

Portuguese Occupation  

In the early 16th century, after the Portuguese under Vasco de Gama had discovered the sea route round the Cape of Good Hope to India, they occupied Muscat for nearly 150 years in order to dominate the trade which had until then been an Arab monopoly. The Portuguese were expelled from Muscat in 1650 by Sultan bin Saif al-Yarubi.  

The Ya’aruba Dynasty  

Since the expulsion of the Portuguese no other foreign power has ever occupied Oman, apart from a brief period when the Persians made a partial occupation. The Ya’aruba Imams introduced a period of renaissance in Oman's fortunes both at home and abroad, uniting the country and bringing prosperity. It was under the Ya’aruba dynasty that many of the imposing castles and beautiful buildings that have been restored recently, such as the fort at Nizwa and the palace at Jabrin, were built.  

Civil War  

Unfortunately, on the death of the Imam, Sultan bin Saif II, in 1718, civil war broke out over the election of his successor. Persian troops occupied Muttrah and Muscat but failed to take Sohar which was defended by Ahmad bin Said, who continued to fight the Persians and drive them from Oman after the civil war had ended.  

The Al bu Said Dynasty  

In 1744, Ahmad bin Said, who was a man of outstanding personality and courage, was elected Imam. He faced a number of difficulties in reconciling the rival factions after the civil war, but managed to build up the Omani navy into a power to be reckoned with, personally leading expeditions against pirates and driving the Persians from Basra. When he died in 1783, his son Said was elected Imam but he was not popular, and was replaced by his son Hamad, who had been de facto ruler in Muscat while his father remained in Rostaq. Hamad died suddenly in 1792 and his uncle, Sayyid Sultan bin Ahmed, assumed power until his death in 1804. He had exercised such tight control over Oman and trade in the Gulf that European powers dealt with him as the effective ruler of the country.  

Sayyid Said bin Sultan  

Sayyid Sultan was succeeded by his son, Sayyid Said bin Sultan, who consolidated his father’s achievements at home and abroad during his reign from 1804-1856. It was in this period that Oman reached its zenith as a regional power with possessions on both sides of the Gulf and in East Africa. Sayyid Said concentrated on developing his country’s economy and commerce. He made Zanzibar his second capital and concluded agreements with the European powers, as well as sending a special envoy to the United States, making Oman the first Arab state to establish diplomatic relations with that country.

Thereafter, however, there followed a period of decline and, at the time of the First World War, Oman’s share of international commercial activities was very limited. Indeed, Oman remained largely isolated from the rest of the world until, in 1970, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos came to power. His Majesty’s reign was the beginning of a bright new era that renewed Oman’s historic glories and opened a new chapter of development, prosperity and social and economic progress.  

Geography  

The Sultanate of Oman occupies the South-Eastern corner of the Arabian Peninsula and is located between Latitudes 16 40' and 26 20' North and Longitudes 51 50' and 59 40' East. The coastline extends 1,700 kilometres from the Strait of Hormuz in the North to the borders of the Republic of Yemen and overlooks three seas - the Arabian Gulf, Gulf of Oman and the Arabian Sea.

The Sultanate of Oman borders Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates in the West; the Republic of Yemen in the South; the Strait of Hormuz in the North and the Arabian Sea in the East.

The total land area is approximately 309,500 km2 and it is the third largest country in the Arabian Peninsula.  

Topography

The Sultanate of Oman has a variety of topographical features consisting of plains, wadis and mountains. The most important area is the coastal plain which represents about 3% of the total land area. The mountain ranges occupy about 15%. The Hajar range runs from Musandam in the North to Ras al-Hadd. In the South, the Dhofar range attracts the monsoon, which brings unique weather conditions and creates a special environment in Dhofar. The remaining area, which occupies 82% of the country, is mainly sand and gravel desert and includes part of the Empty Quarter.

Climate

The climate differs from one area to another. It is hot and humid in the coastal areas in summer; while it is hot and dry in the Interior with the exception of the higher mountains, which enjoy a moderate climate throughout the year. Rainfall is generally light and irregular; although heavy rains and thunderstorms can cause severe flooding. In the South the Dhofar region has a moderate climate and the pattern of rainfall is more predictable with heavy monsoon rains occurring regularly between May and September.  

The Regions  

The Sultanate of Oman is divided into eight administrative regions, which are further sub-divided into fifty-nine districts or wilayats. Each wilayat is governed by a Wali.

Muscat

The Capital area now extends from the town of Seeb in the north to the fishing port of Quriyat in the south. With its commercial centres, industrial areas, Government offices, foreign embassies and hotels, the Governorate of Muscat is the most densely populated and developed part of Oman.

Al-Batinah

The Batinah is the area between the sea and the mountains running some 270 km from the border with the UAE to Muscat. Traditionally it was a fishing and farming region, but is now becoming more commercial and industrialised, in line with the policy of diversification of the economy, with projects embracing a wide variety of enterprises, many of which are located in designated industrial areas. It is one of the most densely populated areas of Oman. The main town on the Batinah is the historic city of Sohar.

Behind the Batinah stretch the Western Hajar mountains running parallel to the coast with the highest peaks reaching over 3000 m. The principal town is al-Rustaq which was once the capital of Oman.

Al-Jauf

The al-Jauf central plateau that stretches from the foot of the Jebel al-Akhdar south to the desert is the heartland of Oman and contains the historic towns of Nizwa, Bahla, Manah, Adam and Izki.  

Sumail Gap  

The Wadi Sumail forms a natural break between the Eastern and western Hajar mountain range and thus forms the main artery of communication from the coast to the interior. The oil and gas pipelines run through the Gap, in which there are many small settlements as well as the major centres at Sumail, Bidbid and Fanjah.  

Al-Dhahirah  

The Dhahirah, meaning the ‘back’ as opposed to the Batinah or ‘belly’ of the mountain is a semi-desert plain sloping down from the Western Hajar towards the Empty Quarter. In the north it meets the UAE at the border town of al-Buraimi. The other main towns are Ibri, Dhank and Yanqul.

Al-Sharqiya  

The Sharqiya is an area of sandy plains and wadis lying on the inland side of the Eastern Hajar mountain range. The main centres of population are Ibra and Sur. To the south lies the Wahiba Sands. The main settlements are at Haima and al-Duqm and along the coast small fishing communities and the islands of Masirah and Mahawt.

Al-Wusta  

The central region is a gravel desert with escarpments running down to the coast, where the main occupation is fishing. Inland lie Oman’s oil and gas and mineral deposits. The Jiddat al Harasis, where the Arabian Oryx has been introduced, was listed in 1994 by UNESCO on its World Natural and Cultural Heritage Register.

Dhofar  

Dhofar occupies the southern part of Oman. The main town is Salalah which lies on the fertile coastal plain and the principal occupations of the inhabitants are fishing and agriculture. Raysut, to the West of Salalah, embraces Oman’s second port and is also the location for a new industrial area. The Dhofar mountain range with its unique climate provides valuable pasture for cattle, camels and goats. Offshore, the Halaniyat Islands support a small fishing community.

Musandam  

Separated from Oman by part of the United Arab Emirates, Musandam is a spectacular feature with mountains rising up to 1,800 m and falling precipitately into the sea. It is linked with the rest of Oman by a modern road network. The main centres are Khasab and Bukha and the major commercial activity is fishing.

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